Jaipur's treasures

Pink City

With this year’s Chinese New Year and Valentine’s Day coupled into one extra long holiday, what a great excuse to go somewhere foreign, exotic and romantic.  During my trip to India, I stopped in Jaipur, India’s Pink City.  Buildings in this colourful capital of Rajasthan were painted pink to give it a romantic fairy tale feel when the Prince of Wales visited the city in 1876 and even today, this royal city’s still dressed in pink.  

 While the facades of buildings might look pretty from afar, the majority of buildings are in quite dilapidated conditions but one building that’s worth visiting for some camera posing is the Hawa Mahal, Palace of Winds.  The façade of this five-storey palace resembles honeycomb with 953 miniature windows to allow ladies in the past to observe the streets.  Can just imagine the winds that could go through the rooms if all the windows were opened!

 Amber Fort is another must-see.  A former residence for the Rajput Maharajas, it was built with a blend of Hindu and Mughal architecture and even has some cool technological innovations, including a piped water supply that flowed through the edifice, keeping the surroundings cool, much like the modern air conditioner!   The lineups can get a little crazy though, so best to go early, just after sunrise, so you can catch the gorgeous views of the fort as you sit on the back of an elephant to trot up the paths.  The fort is also high enough to allow for great views of the Aravalli Range.  Not to be missed is the Mirror Palace in the fort.  Built specially for his queen, the king wanted to re-create the stars in the skies with this space which is filled with mirrored ceilings, glass and colourful mirror mosaics that would glitter under candle light.  How romantic is that?

Qutb Minar

UNESCO World Heritage Site

One of my favorites sites in India is the Qutb Minar in India-a magnificent UNESCO World Heritage site.  Made of red sandstone and marble, the minaret is a tall slender tower that is a distinctive feature of Islamic architecture, providing a place for a call to prayer and this one specifically was built as a victory tower to celebrate the victory of Mohammed Ghori over the Rajput king in 1192.  Tall standing at a height of 72.5 metres, it is the highest stone tower in India and beautifully constructed with alternating angular and rounded flutings.  The structure has been hit by lightning and earthquakes numerous times, as indicated by the inscriptions engraved on the surface of the tower which depict the history of the tower in addition to religious verses and carvings.  You’ll also notice that there is a tilt of about 60cm to the tower, much like the Tower of Pisa, due to water seepage.  While it was used as a watch tower, and before 1981, anyone could enter and climb the 7-storey, 378-step staircase to reach the top, an accident happened in 1981 and since then, access has been closed off.

 Collectively known as the Qutb complex, the tower is surrounded by structures and ruins, including funerary buildings and mosques.  The complex originally had 27 Hindu and Jain temples which were destroyed and replaced by Delhi’s first mosque, Quwwat-ul-Islam, using the remains of the original temples when India’s Islamic ruler, Qutb-ud-din Aibak rose to power in 1192.    

 I highly recommend this site for its intricate architecture and rich history, especially during sunset, as the scenery is just flooded with gorgeous colours.  I’ll let my pictures do the talking…

Land of dispute

Simple living in Kashmir 

While Kashmir seemed relatively peaceful when I visited there last month, it is a land of dispute between India and Pakistan and not so long ago in 2010, clashes between Indian forces and pro-Pakistan and pro-independent supporters ended with over 100 deaths.  I could still sense unease with Indian soldiers spaced out along the roads leading into Srinagar.  The well paved roads leading from the airport to the city centre gradually turned into uneven narrow streets.  How our driver maneuvered in and out of unnamed alleys while avoiding the countless number of stray dogs on the streets to reach our houseboat on the beautiful Dal Lake puzzled me.

 Living on a houseboat for two nights was a great break from city life.  Also known as floating palaces, these meticulously carved cedar wood houseboats have between four to five guestrooms and are anchored to the lakeside and manned by a boatkeeper known as the house captain.  The house captain takes of everything on the boat, from adding firewood in everyone’s rooms throughout the night to cooking up homemade dishes for each meal.  Albeit having to replenish with plenty of water and body balm frequently to avoid super dry skin and feeling a little stuffy at times, I loved the smell of the firewood and had a great night’s sleep.  My 10-hour sleep was a little ridiculous compared to the 6 hours that I usually get, perhaps it was from all the carbon dioxide from the firewood.  I was awaken by the chanting coming from the nearby Islamic mosque.  When I went to the verandah to catch a glimpse of sunrise and to breath in some fresh air, the vibrant colours of the boats and shikaras (water taxis), along with the smoke puffing out from the chimneys and misty morning air, everything-just took my breath away.  It was like stepping into a watercolour painting.

 As we made our way to Gulmarg, also known as the Switzerland of India, to view the snow-capped Himalayan mountains, I saw the smiling faces of Kashmirans in the streets living such simple yet happy lives, I was awashed with a sense of gratitude for all the things I have in my life in this land of dispute.

Life's a zoo!

The lively streets of India 

Over Christmas, I was in the northern part of India where I visited Delhi, Jaipur, Agra and Kashmir.  It was my first time to India and the second I came out of the airport, the first thing that hit me was the air pollution.  Yes air pollution in Hong Kong is bad, but this was way worse.  As this was during winter and temperatures dropped under 10 degrees, the air became super hazy from all the firewood and biomass being burned to keep warm.  Not before long, I spotted the biomass dung cakes lined along the streets...well at least it's a form of renewable fuel source.

 The second thing I noticed, coincidentally, also environment related (must be an occupational habit), was that there's not a lot of trash in garbage bins, rather, countless piles of garbage found almost on every other street.  I later found out, especially during night time, that these piles of trash are left to grow and grow until they are big enough for a bonfire right on the sidewalk to keep people warm.  This "trash" is not only a valuable resource for humans, but also for animals that roam the streets, of which there's plenty of.

 With goats, cows and pigs rummaging through the trash piles, camels sauntering next to swerving traffic, families of monkeys hopping between rooftops, constant honking from cars and auto rickshaws, the streets seemed chaotic  as the animals keep to their territory on the sides of roads and pedestrians have become experts at avoiding being hit by vehicles...yet it was like a form of organized chaos.  Life's a zoo!

Thai Harmony

Banyan Tree Phuket

Banyan Tree Phuket's harmonious peace oasis is only 20 minutes away from the Phuket International Airport.  The moment we stepped into the Thai-inspired open-air lobby with the tranquil sound of water and birds chirping, I switched into “Thai time” where I pretty much lost track of time.  Surprisingly, Banyan Tree Phuket sits on land that was once deemed inhabitable as the Laguna area used to be a mining site.  It’s inspirational to learn that 18 years ago, the Singaporean owners of Banyan Tree had the vision to build the resort and turned the moonscape environment Laguna once was to the beautiful area it is today-a resort destination filled with lush green vegetation and tropical flowers.

The two-bedroom pool villa we stayed at was something else.  With 135 villas ranging from 170 to 380 sq. m., all the villas nestled amidst the lush vegetation of Banyan Tree are built with traditional Thai architectural elements with lots of wood, bamboo, sloping pavilion roofs and salas, an open pavilion that is perfect for meditation or yoga in the great outdoors.  Our villa included a spacious swimming pool, outdoor jet pool, sun loungers and plenty of greenery outside. Fresh fruits such as mangoes, mangosteens and dragonfruits were placed in our kitchen table every day.  The juicy fruits perfectly complemented the coffee we brewed each day right in the comfort of our own villa.  With a quick dip in the pool followed by a hot shower in the outdoor shower which was lined with floral scented bathing gels and shampoo in refillable jars, it was a divine way to start and end each day!

If you’re one of those busy souls that like to keep your day filled with activities, the Banyan Tree has a full daily calendar filled with various options ranging from pilates and yoga classes to local night market and temple visits.  The hotel also has an 18-hole golf course which stays green all year long thanks to irrigation using the hotel’s recycled water.  The entire property is stretched over 21 acres, so electric buggies and bikes are available for guests’ convenience.  For travel around the 600 acre Laguna development, there are frequent shuttle buses that take guests within the development.

If you prefer to stay within the Banyan Tree property, the spa is a great way to spend an afternoon.  A sense of calm washed over us as we entered the spa. We breathed in the scent of lemongrass as we were guided into the seating area of the spa, which overlooks the blue hotel pool with a serene reflection of symmetric Thai pavilions in the water.

We went for a gentle 60-minute Island Dew experience which makes use of a moisturizing massage oil made with rose, chamomile and vitamin E.  With Thailand being a centre for traditional Asian healing therapies, it is not a surprise that all spa therapists from Banyan Tree’s spas from around the world come to Phuket for their training, one of Banyan Tree’s three spa academies in the world. We were in a state of reverie already by the time the experience ended with a divine face and head massage.  Our skin became silky smooth from the moisturizing oil and to make sure the rose oil on our face and body could be thoroughly absorbed by our skin, we left it on for a few hours after the treatment.  After a delicious snack of fresh yogurt, fruits and iced honey tea, we stepped back into the tropical garden with a glowing complexion and a deeply relaxed body and soul.

Earthen Homes

Fujian province

First mistaken by the western world as UFOs when they were “discovered”, the earthen homes in Fujian Province are exceptional examples of building tradition and function that offer shelter, safety and community to large families.  Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008, the earthen buildings or “tulou” are a set of buildings constructed of earth and sand in Fujian that are occupied by clan groups.  The mud walls are complemented with tiled roofs with overhanging eaves.  There are currently more than 20,000 of these structures in existence in the mountainous regions of southeastern China.  Built between the 15th and 20th centuries, these earthy structures are hidden amongst beautiful rice and tea terraced fields.  Originally constructed for large families and for defence purposes, tulou’s are built inward looking with a single entrance and windows to the outside only passed the first floor.

It’s amazing that these structures have withstood hostile weather, earthquakes and warfare over so many centuries and are still inhabited by large families today.  Today, tulou’s have been designated as World Heritage sites and farmers depending on subsistence living are taking good care of their rich cultural heritage homes while depending on sustainable agricultural practices in the tulou communities. What's great about these homes is that they're cool during the summer and warm during the winter and with they keep generations of families together by promoting communnal living.

Fiji Paradise

Shangri-La Fijian Resort & Spa

As the ten hour flight from Hong Kong to Fiji touched down in Nadi with plenty of cheering and clapping followed by Fijians dancing and singing with their ukuleles at the airport, I knew I was going to have a great time in Fiji - a country blessed with beautiful natural scenery and people with incredible warmth and hospitality.

Our driver took us on a 45 minute scenic drive along local villages and sugar cane plantations from Nadi to the Shangri-La Fijian Resort & Spa on Yanuca Island. The 110-acre resort offers the best of both worlds - being secluded enough as it is on its own island, yet close enough to nearby towns as it is connected by a short bridge. I took a deep breath of crisp fresh air and marveled at the simple way of life that Fijians lead as we passed by farmers selling pineapples along the road with smoke coming from simple shacks where villagers are cooking with firewood.

From afar, the island sits picturesquely between the clear blue South Pacific sky and the vast azure ocean. Arriving at the gate, we were warmly greeted with a welcoming “Bula” and offered  refreshing mango juice in the reception area as we waited to be checked-in. There is no air conditioning in the lobby of the Shangri-La, but it didn’t feel hot at all. That's because the open-air high-ceiling sitting area encourages cross-ventilation so there's always a gentle tropical breeze. The area is also artistically decorated with traditional Fijian wooden crafts, festive cookie boxes and calendars put on sale by local students. This is one of the many ways that the resort supports the local communities.

Our room was in the ocean wing, a quieter part of the resort which offers breathtaking views of the Pacific. Designed with organic earth tones and decorated with colourful paintings of the local flora and fauna, and filled with natural sunlight, the locally sourced room furniture made from palmwood gave an extra hint of South Pacific ambiance to the cozy room. All my troubles melted away as my biological clock switched to Fiji time and I relaxed in the laid-back tropical bliss. With a room that is separated from the Pacific only by a coconut tree lined lawn and white coral lined beach, it was the perfect time to enjoy the view in our private balcony sipping a warm cup of morning tea to awake my senses.

To ensure that vacationers stay fit during their holiday breaks, there is something for everyone, from a golf course that is irrigated by reclaimed water to a gym that offers a generous view of the South Pacific as well as bike rentals to go around the island and of course, snorkeling and diving adventures. With boardwalks stretching all the way across the resort, even a morning and evening stroll between the different resort wings is a leisurely experience. As it is situated in such a sensitive marine area and complying with the Shangri-La hotels’ high standards for sustainability, the resort exists with harmony with its natural surroundings and local communities. On daily nature walks guests learn about the ethnobotancial uses of local Fijian plants, such as the oils from the dilo seed which leaves your skin feeling smooth and beautiful and the leaves of the Tavola beach mahogany which are great for children who eat too many sweets. Not to be missed along the lush vegetation lined boardwalk leading to the lobby of the resort are the flying foxes, fruit bats that are indigenous to Fiji.

Over 700 mangroves have been planted along the island and Shangri-La staff and guests participate in regular beach cleanups to cleanup up trash in the pristine waters around the island. In addition to snorkeling amongst colourful coral reefs and diving in the turquoise clear waters, families can build fishhouses which are placed into a shape of a turtle to eventually grow into a coral reef. Being part of the Fiji Locally Managed Marine Area Network, this is one of the many ways that the Shangri-La helps to contribute to the Yanuca Marine Protected Area.

To get a taste of local Fijian culture, nothing beats the fire dancing show at the Marua Village at the Shangri-La. Twirling flames of fire and machetes flying in the air wowed the audience and the kids certainly loved dancing along with the Fijian tunes. Everyone got a great laugh when the ladies in the audience went on to imitate the “warriors” dancing but the gentlemen doing the bellydancing with the Fijian dancers were even funnier. A wonderful buffet of local Fijian cuisine with crispy roasted pig, brown sugar charcoaled chicken plus beef and seafood coconut stew complements the show. The desserts were very well done, especially the cassava root covered with caramel sauce and banana pudding. With such fresh ingredients and back-to-basics cooking styles, Fijian food certainly do wonders in building national rugby players who are amongst the best in the world!

After a few days of soaking up sunshine and a late afternoon horseback ride along the rail tracks near the resort, it was the perfect time to unwind with a traditional Fijian bobo massage at the Chi Spa. With the open-air architecture complemented by colourful Fijian hibiscus flowers at the spa reception area, I was already in a state of bliss as I sipped my herbal lemon grass tea. The private spa bure, which can also be booked for an overnight stay, offers a stunning view of the Pacific. Combining traditional Fijian aromatic herbs with coconut oil, the treatment is ideal for circulation and tense muscles. It wasn’t long before I dozed off into a state of deep relaxation as my body was pampered. As I walked out of the spa, feeling revitalized with the sweet smell of coconut oil all over, I caught the gorgeous sunset with shades of pink, purple and orange one last time by the rippleless infinity pool, reflecting on this wonderful trip to Fiji.