Simple living in Kashmir
While Kashmir seemed relatively peaceful when I visited there last month, it is a land of dispute between India and Pakistan and not so long ago in 2010, clashes between Indian forces and pro-Pakistan and pro-independent supporters ended with over 100 deaths. I could still sense unease with Indian soldiers spaced out along the roads leading into Srinagar. The well paved roads leading from the airport to the city centre gradually turned into uneven narrow streets. How our driver maneuvered in and out of unnamed alleys while avoiding the countless number of stray dogs on the streets to reach our houseboat on the beautiful Dal Lake puzzled me.
Living on a houseboat for two nights was a great break from city life. Also known as floating palaces, these meticulously carved cedar wood houseboats have between four to five guestrooms and are anchored to the lakeside and manned by a boatkeeper known as the house captain. The house captain takes of everything on the boat, from adding firewood in everyone’s rooms throughout the night to cooking up homemade dishes for each meal. Albeit having to replenish with plenty of water and body balm frequently to avoid super dry skin and feeling a little stuffy at times, I loved the smell of the firewood and had a great night’s sleep. My 10-hour sleep was a little ridiculous compared to the 6 hours that I usually get, perhaps it was from all the carbon dioxide from the firewood. I was awaken by the chanting coming from the nearby Islamic mosque. When I went to the verandah to catch a glimpse of sunrise and to breath in some fresh air, the vibrant colours of the boats and shikaras (water taxis), along with the smoke puffing out from the chimneys and misty morning air, everything-just took my breath away. It was like stepping into a watercolour painting.
As we made our way to Gulmarg, also known as the Switzerland of India, to view the snow-capped Himalayan mountains, I saw the smiling faces of Kashmirans in the streets living such simple yet happy lives, I was awashed with a sense of gratitude for all the things I have in my life in this land of dispute.
While Kashmir seemed relatively peaceful when I visited there last month, it is a land of dispute between India and Pakistan and not so long ago in 2010, clashes between Indian forces and pro-Pakistan and pro-independent supporters ended with over 100 deaths. I could still sense unease with Indian soldiers spaced out along the roads leading into Srinagar. The well paved roads leading from the airport to the city centre gradually turned into uneven narrow streets. How our driver maneuvered in and out of unnamed alleys while avoiding the countless number of stray dogs on the streets to reach our houseboat on the beautiful Dal Lake puzzled me.
Living on a houseboat for two nights was a great break from city life. Also known as floating palaces, these meticulously carved cedar wood houseboats have between four to five guestrooms and are anchored to the lakeside and manned by a boatkeeper known as the house captain. The house captain takes of everything on the boat, from adding firewood in everyone’s rooms throughout the night to cooking up homemade dishes for each meal. Albeit having to replenish with plenty of water and body balm frequently to avoid super dry skin and feeling a little stuffy at times, I loved the smell of the firewood and had a great night’s sleep. My 10-hour sleep was a little ridiculous compared to the 6 hours that I usually get, perhaps it was from all the carbon dioxide from the firewood. I was awaken by the chanting coming from the nearby Islamic mosque. When I went to the verandah to catch a glimpse of sunrise and to breath in some fresh air, the vibrant colours of the boats and shikaras (water taxis), along with the smoke puffing out from the chimneys and misty morning air, everything-just took my breath away. It was like stepping into a watercolour painting.
As we made our way to Gulmarg, also known as the Switzerland of India, to view the snow-capped Himalayan mountains, I saw the smiling faces of Kashmirans in the streets living such simple yet happy lives, I was awashed with a sense of gratitude for all the things I have in my life in this land of dispute.
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