Tashkent

Uzbekistan’s Capital

A mix of modern architecture, tree-lined streets and parks can be found in Tashkent, a city of 2 milion.  There’s little evidence that it was a major Silk Road city.  Much of the city’s historical buildings have disappeared since Uzbekistan’s independence in 1991 and following a destructive earthquake in 1966.  Remains of Soviet architecture can still be seen, but major monuments such as Stalin’s statutes have been replaced by those that more represent Uzbekistan, such as the golden globe featuring Uzbekistan in Independence Square and the weeping mother and eternal flame at the War Memorial commemorating 450,000 Uzbeks that sacrificed themselves to join the Russians in World War II.

The History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan is a worthwhile spot to visit to get a better understanding of Uzbekistan.  Like all the other sites and museums in Uzbekistan, a photography fee is charged (more expensive than the entrance fee) if you want to take pictures.  From the tools used by Neanderthals in Central Asia and Zorastrian burial sites way back in history to the artifacts left from the time when Uzbekistan was ruled by Persian empires.  In the 8th century, Arab Muslims took over the region, bringing a Renaissance of science and the arts to Central Asia.  Following the Mongol conquest under Genghis Khan in 13th century and Timur’s sweeping powers across Central Asia in the 14th century and later on Russia’s rule in the 19th century, it wasn’t until 1991 that the country became independent.

Other than the airport and subway system in Tashkent, there wasn’t too much police surveillance, but our guide warned us not to take any pictures.  Pictures aren’t allowed since the airport and subway stations are considered to be military installations.  The subway stations are pretty grand with massive pieces of art and plenty of marble, much like the ones in Russia and North Korea.  It is only one of two subway systems in Central Asia, with the other one in Almaty.  Built in 1977, there are 29 stations in total.

The best kept secret in Tashkent is probably the Samarkand Kufic Quran-earliest written copy of the Quran, which has been kept in Uzbekistan since 1924 after journeying to Samarkand and St. Petersburg (taken as a war trophy).  This piece of work commissioned in 651 by the third caliph Uthman is kept in the inconspicuous Hast Imam library in the Telyashayakh Mosque.  While no pictures are allowed of this major religious artifact, it puzzles me why there’s little surveillance of the artifact.  Perhaps the safest places are the ones that are least watched?

Taking the 2-hour train called the Afrosiyob high speed rail to Samarkind was a joy.  The modern luxury of a comfortable rail car definitely beats hours of bus ride.  Onward to Samarkand in my next blog!