North Korea: Just a train ride away

Getting there

Before we took the train across the border early in the morning, we were warned of the things we had to pay attention to while in North Korea.  We weren’t supposed to mention the phrase “North Korea” because there’s only one Korea.  Even the sign for our tour group got changed to just Korea since our tour guide didn’t want to get lectured for half an hour on the proper name of the country.  At the train station, we spotted quite a few North Koreans with boxes and boxes of goods they were taking back home.  It was pretty easy to tell that they were Korean with the distinct pin they were wearing to respect their leaders Kim Jung Il and Kim Il Sung.  It’s not obvious that we’ve traveled to North Korea if you look at our passports because passports don’t get stamped.  Instead, the stamp goes on a separate piece of paper, which we were instructed to hold on to for dear life because we would have no identity if we were to lose that piece of paper and it’s definitely a priced possession which could sell for a lot in North Korea.  

The train is quite comfy and well air-conditioned.  There are two three-tiered bunk beds in each small compartment and seats by the window.  The train from Dandong to Pyongyang first stopped at Sinujiu for a border check and we were all frantically scribbling down our details on the three border crossing forms as the trained stopped for a border check.  We caught a glimpse of a deserted ferris wheel and soldiers washing clothes outside some buildings after passing the bridge to the other side.  The border guards are well acquainted with electronic devices and they took the liberty of checking for any prohibited photos (pictures of soldiers, political literature).  It was also a chance for the train to re-charge its battery.  We were quite lucky that the train didn’t make frequent charge stops, which happens usually.  Not before long, we were chugging past green pastures of corn and peas.  Curious faces of farmers looked at us and we waved back to say a friendly hello.  It was quite warm and humid in North Korea in August, so kids found themselves some cool by swimming in small ponds amongst the fields.  They greeted us with happy faces and excited hand waves as our slow train went by.  The occasional van passed by, but we mostly saw people on their bikes and cows labouring away in the fields.  Farmers were chatting with each other as they gave time for their sheep and chickens to feed in the lush green grass fields.  Life seems so simple.  We didn’t make another stop until a few hours later when the train staff emptied the trash bins from the train.  Some started walking up and down the aisles selling fruit juices, salted fish and kimchi.  Five hours later, the tall buildings of Pyongyang finally came into view.