Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Isfahan

Iran's gem

One of my favorite places in Iran is Naghsh-e Jashan Square, one of the largest city squares in the world, as it is surrounded by beautiful masterpieces of Persian architecture.  The colours of the sky and buildings vary between different times of the day but especially beautiful during sunset as the dome of the nearby mosque turns pink against the colourful backdrop of the sun and clouds.  To the west of the square is the Ali Qapu Palace which has detailed wall paintings, ornamented doors and spiral staircases and a highly decorative music and sound room that has intricate plasterwork around the room, providing the best acoustics for the king’s musicians in the past.  On the south side is the Imam Mosque with multi-coloured mosaic tiles filled with rich turquoise, gold and blue colours.  It was especially touching to stand beside the chanter at the mosque making a call to prayer and I could feel the ring of his prayer vibrating from the walls.  I had no idea what he was singing but it was still really moving as I looked up into the high dome in the ceiling during his prayer-it just felt heavenly and I was awashed with a sense of serenity.

 It was pretty cold when I went to Iran, especially during mornings and evenings, so early evening was the perfect time to snuggle into the Qaysariyya Bazaar right at the Naghsh-e Iashan Square for a browse through.  There are all sorts of shops selling Persian handicrafts like carpets, paintings, and carvings as well as lamps, gaz and more.  I couldn’t stop eating gaz in Iran, a Persian nougat candy made from the sweet milky sap from the angebin plant with pistachios, rose water, saffron, egg white.  They’re super sweet but so addictive!  It was amazing to see the detail in Persian hand printed carpets.  They are like works of art hanging from walls and seem almost too previous to be stepped on.  A tradition that dates back to ancient Persia, over 2,500 years ago, carpet weaving is the most well-known craft in Iran, making the country the largest producer and exporter of handmade carpets in the world.  Usually made with a blend of silk and wool, there are also precious ones that are made purely of silk, which are usually hung like tapestries with a frame.  Some of these are so detailed that the weaver must have gone blind after spending years to complete one!

 Next stop: Persepolis!












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