Gaudi's Barcelona

A mythological fairytale

Barcelona is well known for football, food and of course Gaudi.  I was in awe when I came across Gaudi’s works as the features in his architecture are just so surreal and out of the ordinary, resembling those out of a fairy tale.  I especially love the details of animals and plants that are interwoven into the building features and the use of colourful tiles, ceramic pieces and stained glass.  Those who like modernistic architecture will be fascinated with the buildings in Barcelona.  The most famous of Gaudi’s works is the Sagrada Familia.  Still under construction, this work was one that Gaudi devoted his entire life to.  Completion of the church is slated for 2026, which marks the centenary of Gaudi’s death.  The church was first created as neo-Gothic church before Gaudi took over as the lead architect in 1883.  Only a small portion was complete when Gaudi died in 1926.  When finished the church will have 18 towers and able to accommodate 13,000 people.  The twelve apostles are represented by four towers on each of the three facades while another four represent the four evangelists.  Another two are dedicated to Jesus Christ while the final one is to the Virgin Mary.  Before his death, Gaudi finished the Nativity Façade which has amazing details of various animals and plants.  The Passion Façade was done after his death and depicts the crucified Jesus Christ.  The final Façade’s construction started in 2002 and pictures life and death.  Inside the church, my favorite feature is the tree-inspired nave, which resembles branches growing from a tree to stretch up to the roof. With light shining through the coloured windows, it was like walking inside a forest at different times of the day.  I can’t wait to revisit Barcelona to see the completed Sagrada Familia in a decade’s time!

Another piece of Gaudi’s work that is well worth a visit is the Casa Mila.  This apartment block was Gaudi’s last piece of work before he focused solely on Sagrada Familia.  The use of pillars, arches and plenty of steel makes this unconventional building a feast to the eyes and imagination.  What’s really neat about the structure of Casa Mila is that its stone façade is entirely self supporting rather than connecting to a load bearing wall and these facades are connected by iron beams.  Walls inside the structure can be changed without affecting the entire structure.  The colourful and irregularly shaped chimneys of Casa Mila make it extraordinary.  It would be awesome to live in this apartment block but I can imagine that privacy would be an issue with loads and loads of tourists taking pictures of the building throughout the year!

Palace in Eden

The Alhambra

A must-visit in Spain is the Calat Alhamra palace in Granada.  Originally built as a small fortress in 889 and converted into a royal palace in 1333 by the Sultan Yusuf I, before portions were added on in 1527 by Charles V.  For centuries, the structure was occupied by squatters after falling into ruins.  Literally meaning the red female, Alhambra’s name comes from the colour of the red clay used in the surroundings of the palace.  The combination of Islamic Moorish architecture and Christian gardens and architectural features has made it an inspiration for movies and songs.  Numerous fountains can be found, with the sound of water flowing through the spaces, supplied via a 8 km conduit, which is also essential for the irrigation system in the vegetated courtyards.  Being the “paradise on earth”, the palace feature rooms that open to spacious central courts, reflecting pools that sit at the centre of courtyards, grand marble columns and plenty of sunlight flowing into the rooms.  Attention to detail is magnificent in the ceilings and windows, with calligraphy and arabesque decorations.  One of my favorite parts of the palace is the Court of the Lions which has in its centre, a basin held by twelve white marble lions.  Engraved at the edge of the fountain describing the sheer beauty and power of the palace and the ingenious water technologies used.  Taking a walk in the palace and its surroundings brings about a sense of calm, especially with light flowing inside the spaces, reflective ponds and cooling sounds of water flowing through the edifice.  The striking beauty of this place is truly paradise on earth.

Spanish gastronomy

Iberico ham, suckling pigs and more!

It’s hard to resist when it comes to eating pork in Spain and with stores dedicated to selling hams found everywhere in Barcelona and Madrid, I was down with pork overload by the end of my trip in Spain!  But one of the must-haves is the roasted suckling pig that has made the town of Segovia so famous.  The narrow stonepaths in Segovia are dotted with restaurant menus showcasing the famous roasted suckling pig, or Chochinillo Asado, but the most well known of the restaurants is the Meson De Candido in the centre of the town square.  The owner proudly wears his medallion and shows off his famous dish by cutting the pig with a plate before shattering it onto the floor.  Not surprisingly, lineups are continuous from morning to night, especially during lunch hour, for a taste of the simple, crispy goodness.  I was tempted to buy a whole leg of Iberico ham to bring home with me but my suitcases were overweight already.  The famed Iberico ham originates from acorn fed black pigs that eat up to 10 kilos of acorns each day.  The fat is evenly layered in the ham, with an intense flavour, especially those cured for over two years which have a golden hue glistening from the fat.  A taste of the nutty and salty flavour of the ham is the ultimate gastronomic experience.  For those with a sweet tooth like me, walking into a traditional nougat shop in Spain packed with assorted colours of nougat is heaven.  The simple mix of honey, egg whites and sugar with pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts and dried fruits in this confection makes it a long time tradition.  While nougat is great, of course, nothing beats a side of fresh fried churros dipped in warm chocolate on a rainy day in Spain.

Cordoba

Great Mosque/Cathedral of Cordoba

Populated with Catholics, churches can be found everywhere in Spain but one of my favorites lie in Cordoba.  The city was under Islamic rule in the 8th century and was one of the most populated cities in the world in the 10th century before it fell into decline like many great cities did.  One of the most interesting architectural landmarks in the city is The Great Mosque/Cathedral of Cordoba.  Built as an Islamic mosque, it was later converted into a Catholic church in the 13th century.  Incorporating ivory, gold, silver and countless dazzling ornaments into the mosque decorations with majestic Roman marble columns, the architectural details of the structure are breathtaking.  A spot of marvelous detail is the prayer mihrab which has geometric designs inspired by plants and dotted with colourful mosaics.  Christian features were gradually added to the mosque until the 18th century along with alterations such as turning the minaret into a bell tower. The red and white horseshoe arches in the main prayer hall are especially well-known. Coloured glass windows that allow sunlight to shine in add a sense of awakening to the cool and dark interiors.  

An ancient natural muse

Huangshan

An inspiration to numerous Chinese poets and artists, and named by ancient poet Li Bai, Huangshan is renowned for its beautiful and dramatic landscapes, interestingly shaped rocks, pine trees and quick moving seas of clouds.  Situated in Anhui province, Huangshan is made up of many peaks, some of which were created over 100 million years ago and 77 of which reach over 1000 metres.  The gradually changing shapes of the mountains as a result of glaciation and tectonic movements have created natural wonders such as waterfalls, lakes, hotsprings and rock clusters.  Together with the heavily populated pine and juniper trees, it is no wonder Huangshan has been the muse for artists throughout the centuries.  Many of these trees seem to pop out of rocks and have been aptly named according to their locations and shapes, such as the Ying Ke Pine or Welcoming Pine.  Walking up and down the 60,000 steps, some of which have been created for hundreds of years is no easy task.  Looking at some of the rock inscriptions makes me wonder how people went about carving words at the oddest places that seem to hang in the sky with impossible access routes.  Some spend time in the ancient temples to meditate with the simplest necessities of comfort but even staying in the mountain lodges for a night or two and waking up in the early hours the next morning will let visitors witness the mystical effects of the quick moving clouds in the sky, especially at one of the highest points called Guangming Summit and the amazing sunrise that has been named Buddha’s Light, which make you feel as though you’re walking amidst clouds.  

Freedom unleashed

Inner Mongolia

For a less traveled route in China, Inner Mongolia is a great destination, especially during the summer months.  Both Mongolian and Chinese are used in everyday communication in Inner Mongolia, so you can see words are written in both languages on street signs, store signs, etc., especially in the capital Hohot and Mandarin works fine on the streets.  With the vast grasslands stretching across Mongolia, there’s no shortage of cows, horses and sheep.  Just as ubiquitous are hot pot restaurants, dairy producers and delicious lamb on the streets of Hohot.  To get a sense of living like a nomad, check out The Xilamuren Grasslands, only a few hours drive away from the city.  While I first envisioned these to be vast grasslands, many parts of it were parched, so they weren’t as rugged and green as I imagined them to be.  During our time on the grasslands, we stayed in modernized versions of traditional Mongolian huts, which basically means the exteriors look like huts but the interiors have everything from hot water to soft comfy beds and electricity.  Not as nomadic as I thought but can’t complain about these necessities of comfort.  We were warmly greeted by plenty of singing, dancing and there’s no shortage of alcohol.  There’s plenty of fun on the grasslands-from watching locals wrestling and horse racing to karoke-singing around bonfires after dinner.  But nothing beats galloping across the grasslands on a horse.  For a desert experience in Inner Monglia, Xiangshawan is the place to be, which translates to singing sand dunes bay.  This neat spot in the Gobi desert is apparently where the dry grains of sand sounds off rumbling murmurs of bells, but only those lucky enough will witness this.  Sand sledding, camel riding and live dance performances make this a popular spot for old and young alike.  

Sacred Mountain

Wuyi Mountain

A sacred mountain that was a major centre for Taoism and later Buddhism, the Wuyi Mountain in the southeastern part of Fujian and is well-known for its landscape, especially the Nine Bend River. With winding bends intertwined with valleys flanked by columnar cliffs, there’s no better way to take in the views of the natural surroundings than riding down the river on a bamboo raft.  Way back inthe Tang Dynasty in 748 AD, the emperor forbade fishing and deforestation and this rule still survives today.  Temples and monasteries have been established in the mountains over time, but only remnants remain to this day for the majority of them.  Surprisingly, in the lower stretches of the river are 18 boat coffins hanging off cliffs which date back to 200 BC.  It remains a mystery how they are still preserved to this day.  In the 11th to 16th centuries, there was even an imperial tea farm in the mountains.  Famous for four varieties of tea leaves, including the Big Red Robe, there’s no shortage of shops selling tea leaves in Fujian, but there’s nothing like sipping a cup of tea right in the teahouse in the mountains.