Marrakech

Arabian Mystique

It’s not a surprise that Marrakech is known as hippie Mecca. With new hotels and golf courses popping up around this tourist city and celebrities flocking to the city to buy properties, Marrakech is awashed with a sense of wealth despite many locals still living below the poverty line. Streets are neatly lined with plots of rose bushes, perfectly trimmed mandarin orange trees, palm trees, and cactus plants. Malls with designer names stores are opening up to soak up some of the wealth. 

As the golden sun makes it way down the peaks of the Atlas Mountains, Djemma el-Fna square starts becoming busier and busier. This bustling place is flocked with locals and tourists as well as smelly horses working their way through the lineup for carriage rides. 


What used to be a public place for decapitations and eventually a place for desert traders to display their goods is now a cacophony of performances of loud tambourines and thumping African drums, men with monkeys trying to get tourists to take pictures, persuasive herb sellers surrounded by men, souks specializing in dried foods like figs, dates and nuts as well as wet foods like camel meat (didn’t realize it was camel until I saw the head) can be found. Others are selling teas and spices, clothes, carpets, turtles and everything that can be possibly imagined. 


Trying to navigate through the food stalls without being stopped by someone speaking Japanese to me is a great challenge. It was a great relief to finally stop by a stall to sip on a refreshing 4 dinar orange juice. 


An excellent landmark to get a sense of direction is the Koutoubia Mosque. At 77 metres, it is the highest point in the Medina since no other buildings are allowed to be higher. Historically, the muezzin or person to call out to the public for prayer, had to be blind, to forbid any one from viewing inside the palace. 

To live out of the fantasy of exotic Moroccan traditions, check out the Fantasia show at Chez Ali. Guests are treated to a traditional dinner of vegetable couscous, beef kebabs, mint tea or Moroccan whisky under Berber tents in an open air setting out in the middle of a palm grove. With plenty of bellydancing, skilled horsemen showing off their equestrian skills and firing rifles complete with a couple on a flying carpet, it was a night like one out of the One Thousand and One Nights fairytale cloaked in Arabian mystique.

Fez

A 1200-year old city

With a history that dates back 1200 years ago, every street and alley in Fez is filled with a sense of antiquity. Up until 1925, Fez was the capital of Morocco. Numerous mosques and madrasahs can be found, but the most unique place to visit is the medina in Fez’s Old Town. 

The nooks and crannies in this compact place are filled with shops and markets and people, donkeys and motorbikes equally share the crowded streets so it’s common to hear shouts of “balak” to get out of the way! 


It’s pretty easy to get lost in this colourful labyrinth made up of 9500 streets, lane and alleyways. Some are so narrow that one has to make it through by walking sideways. I went there early in the morning and shop owners were just about to get started in their day after grabbing a breakfast of mint tea and flat bread. Inside the medina, copper and silver craft shops, leather tanneries, spice stores, and delicious sweet shops can be found. 

From stinky tanneries to colourful rug shops and beautiful Moorish light fixtures, bargainers will love this place. It’s not hard to notice that many of the aged buildings in the medina are falling apart and horizontal wooden pillars are placed between buildings as an emergency solution to a historic problem. Not surprisingly many owners have sold their properties to foreigners to exchange for money to house themselves in the newer parts of the city. But the eclectic mix of old and new makes the medina even more interesting. Nestled in the medina is the Zaouia Moulay Idriss II shrine which is dedicated to the founder of Fez and ruler of Morocco in the 8th century.

Mars on Earth

Ouarzazate & Erfoud

The desert town of Erfoud is also known as the door to the desert. Erfoud is a popular place for adventurers to stock up on necessities and rest before entering for a Sahara desert journey. 

I highly recommend the Kasbah Xaluca Hotel for a unique stay as the entire hotel is thoughtfully furnished with everything from light furnishings made from woven baskets to oriental carpets leading guests from the entrance to the Berber style rooms. 



Another desert town that is well worth a visit is Ouarzazate. Because of the resemblance of the surroundings to Mars, there’s even been space research done here. It’s also a popular spot for filming with Atlas Studios being the biggest movie studio. Movies such as The Mummy and Gladiator and several episodes of The Game of Thrones were filmed in Ouarzazate with Ait Benhaddou being the focal point. 


The buildings in this ksar (fortified city) look neglected since villagers have abandoned their homes for newer villages that have electricity and water but they look amazing from afar, especially since it blends seamlessly into the red earthen surroundings. This fortified earthen city is along the caravan route between the Sahara Desert and Marrakech at the footfills of the Atlas Mountains. 


A short hike across the dried river bed up to the ksar offers beautiful views of the red earth rock formations and inside views of some of the kasbahs or fortresses. A number of them have been refurbished as boutique hotels while others serve as souvenir shops. Only a handful of villagers still live there, retaining the most traditional Berber lifestyle that is highly dependent on animals like donkeys for labour and transport. I highly recommend visiting around sunset time as the sun’s rays make the golden glistening ksar even more magical.